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Crewel
Crewel
Crewel work refers to any embroidery that has been stitched using crewel wool. Crewel wool is a two-ply worsted yarn that has been lightly twisted. This type of yarn is very strong and has been used by embroiderers since before the Middle Ages. It tends to be stitched on linen. The most famous piece of crewel embroidery is The Bayeux Tapestry; this is a 231 foot long embroidery showing the Norman Conquest of 1066. Crewel is sometime referred to as Jacobean embroidery because it hit its height of popularity in the early 17th Century when the King was James I which is Jacobus in Latin.
Classic crewel designs tend to be mainly based in nature like flowers, birds and also a favourite is the tree of life.
It lost its popularity when other forms of embroidery began to be stitched such as cross stitch and needlepoint. But it was to make a huge comeback in the late 19th Century and was embraced by English designer William Morris among many others. He brought Crewelwork away from the label of ‘hobby’ and it began to be classed as an ‘art form’. Morris used Crewel for a bed coverlet among many other household furnishings.
Crewel work now has a very modern appeal. The wools are available in a huge selection of colours. There are plenty of designs out there that have a very modern feel and have moved away from the original botanical feel.
One thing that always stands out in crewel work is the subtle shading. This is done using satin shading stitch changing the colour of the yarn very gradually as you work across the area you are filling.
Materials Needed
Fabrics
Crewel is traditionally stitched on special linen twill. This is sometimes referred to as Jacobean. Other fabrics can be used but it is important that they have a dense weave; otherwise it cannot support the heavy wool embroidery. Twill weave does not have the same grid pattern as other embroidery fabrics tend to have. It is woven so that each thread goes over or under two threads which are then staggered. This leads to a tight, smooth and uninterrupted surface. Twill can be purchased either in 100% linen or in a linen blend.
Yarns
As mentioned previously this is two-ply worsted wool that has been lightly twisted. The yarn has a smoother feel to it that knitting yarn. It comes from long-haired English sheep. This wool is then combed and spun until it is very smooth – this is worsted wool. Two strands of this wool are then twisted together. You should never split your wool. Most needlecraft and online shops stock several makes of crewel wool in an extensive range of colours. It tends to be sold by the skein. When embroidering with Crewel wool it is important that you do not use a long piece as it can wear out as you sew through the fabric. It is recommended that you use a length of yarn about 14”. The yarns are available in so many colours with very little difference sometimes between shades. This is so that you can achieve the well known subtle shading that is so popular in Crewel work.
Embroidery Hoop
A hoop is essential when doing Crewel work. You need to have a smooth, tight surface. Also easy access to both the top and the underneath of your fabric is necessary.
Needles
There are specialist needles for doing Crewel work. These are called Crewel needles. They have a sharp point to pierce the fabric and a fat body to make a hole large enough for the crewel wool to go through. The crewel needle is quite long and has a short eye. It is also possible to use a Chenille needle, which has a short body and a long eye but still has the necessary sharp point. As always it is important to get the correct size needle to correspond to the fabric that you have chosen.
Crewel Stitches
Straight Stitch
Back Stitch
Satin Stitch – also known as Gobelin stitch
Satin Shading Stitch
Split Stitch
Stem Stitch
Chain Stitch
Padded Satin Stitch
Pistil Stitch
Seeding Stitch
Basic Couching
Close Fly Stitch
Simple Laid and Couched Work
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