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Hardanger
Hardanger
Hardanger is a Norwegian form of embroidery. In history Norwegians have always travelled a great deal and it is because of this that this type of embroidery shows a great deal of influences from countries other than Norway. Different styles of embroidery are seen to be more traditional, varying from colourful wool embroidery to rose embroidery. On the west coast though, in the Hardanger region, the most frequently used style of embroidery is whitework done on linen. This is what is now known as Hardanger and sometimes referred to as Norwegian Drawn Work.
It has been around since at least the 17th Century as it has been found on altar cloths from that time.
Hardanger is very geometric in design and has a definite set of rules to be followed. It also uses Cut Work methods. Cut Work is where part of the fabric is cut away to leave a hole which is then reinforced with embroidery stitches or lace work. It tends to have bold designs for example triangles, crosses and ladders.
It is traditionally used to embroider bands on aprons, head-dresses, cuffs and of course household linens.
When doing hardanger it is helpful to tack in the grid lines you are working within. Tack in the centre lines in both directions using a coloured thread that will stand out. Then in a different colour thread again tack in a grid using multiples of four – which is the number that hardanger designs usually work around.
What do you need?
Fabric: Hardanger embroidery is worked on evenweave fabrics. An evenweave fabric is a smooth fabric where with a single thread between each hole and the warp and weft threads are the same size. This is so that the designs work out square and the threads can be cut and taken out wit ease.
Needles: For this type of embroidery it is best to use tapestry needles with a blunt end. The size of the needle will be decided by the thickness of the thread you have chosen and the size of the hole in the fabric that you will be sewing through. Sizes 22 to 26 are the most widely used for this.
Threads: The threads recommended for Hardanger are either cotton or linen. Two different weights of thread are sometimes used. A thicker thread would be used for the outline of the design and any surface embroidery. Then a thinner thread for the filling stitches, the pulled thread stitches and any delicate embroidery that needs doing. When considering the colours of threads it is important that they do not distract from the stitching itself as in this style of embroidery it is the technique that is the important thing rather than the colours. As usual do not use a long piece of thread as it will shred as you sew.
It is also important to have a sharp pair of embroidery scissors as you will be cutting the threads of the fabric very close to the stitching and it needs to be clean and accurate. Sometimes tool called a stiletto is used so that the holes punched in the fabric are of a uniform size and shape.
Stitches:
Kloster Blocks – these form the outline of the design. Traditionally these will be five stitches over four threads.
Cut away blocks – always cut against the side of the blocks never at the top or bottom. Cut four at a time and ease them out one at a time with tweezers.
Eight Pointed Star
Reversed Diagonal Fagoting
Squared Eyelets
Picot Knot on a Woven Bar
Square Filet
Doves Eye Filling
Greek Cross
Diagonal Twisted Bars
Ship Motif
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